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The Women Who Weave by Ellen Agger, Co-Founder of TAMMACHAT Natural Textiles

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I’ve already confessed my blanket obsession to you so let me now tell you about my secret fabric stash. I don’t sew — although I have made quilts for both my kids just so I’d have an excuse to buy fabric — but I love texture. So I was immediately drawn to the gorgeous wares from TAMMACHAT Natural Textiles. Ellen Agger and Alleson Kase launched the fair trade company in 2007 to empower and support the women of rural Thailand and Laos who handweave these textiles. The partners make regular trips to these countries to visit the artisans and get to know them better. Ellen is proud to introduce you to these talented weavers on her travel blog and right here:

As we drive into Nawn Thoong village in Thailand’s northeast province of Khon Kaen, Pii Yai is excited. She has served for many years on the board of directors of Prae Pan Group, a women’s weaving co-operative in Thailand’s northeast, whose staff set up our visits today to three villages where members live and work.

We gather across the street at the house of Mae Pit, a long-time Prae Pan member. She and the four other members sit on a mat next to the house, protected from the glaring sun. All in their late 50s, these are the village’s silk weavers. Like most of Prae Pan’s members, they are farmers who fit weaving around their farming chores and caring for their children, grandchildren and elders. Weaving brings in much needed income which is used to send their children to trade school or university, for health care and to improve their lives in the village.

By belonging to the co-op they are paid for their work as soon as they deliver it to the group’s shop in Khon Kaen city. Members are proud that the co-op owns this shop, reflecting the group’s goal of being self-sufficient.

Co-op membership gives members the chance to work with customers like us, who pay 50% in advance for orders. It also gives them a market for their weaving well beyond what they would otherwise be able to reach as individuals.

We talk to the women gathered today about passing on the skills they learned from their mothers. Now their daughters are going off to earn their livings in the cities or on to further schooling. These skills are at risk of being lost, we’re told again and again on visits like these.

Sometimes younger women do return to their village when their children are small, preferring a quieter life where they have family support networks. “When I was young,” says one of the women, “I went away to work in a factory. Then I came back to my village. At home, you’re free. I can farm and I’m happier.”

After choosing samples of silk yarns in some of the colours they can produce in this village, we thank the women, jump in Pii Yai’s truck and arrive a short time later in Nom Thoom. We stop at the house of Mae Nung who is feeding organic mulberry leaves to heritage silkworms in baskets her husband has woven. “Raising silkworms is like raising babies,” she says. The resulting silk yarns, painstakingly reeled by hand, are produced organically, protecting both the women’s health and their local environment.

In neighbouring Suk Som Boon, Mae Nung practices the full circle of producing silk. She grows the mulberry bushes to feed the silkworms, hand reels and twists silk yarns, dyes them with natural dyes that she has grown or gathered in the wild, and weaves. It’s time- consuming work, taking two months to produce 12 handwoven, naturally dyed silk scarves, three months to produce 40 metres of organic silk fabric.

We watch as Mae Pan cuts the reddish green leaves of “maak yao.” She has a new recipe to create a luminescent green. She dips the silk yarns in the simmering dye bath twice, then gets help from Mae Pet, the president of Prae Pan, to straighten the fine yarns and hang them to dry.

Preserving these traditional skills – and bringing income to women in Thailand and Laos’s rural areas – is what’s behind TAMMACHAT’s work. Fair trade is about much more than paying fairly for the work. It’s about respecting the people who do the work, learning from each other and supporting sustainable practices. It makes a real difference in the lives of these women.

“Our weavers are very proud when they can weave cloth beautiful enough to attract customers,” Mae Pet tells us. And well they should be.

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The eSSSence of Ellen Agger

Style: Style: I always feel best when I'm wearing natural fibres and natural dyes. I'm passionate about hand-reeled silk!
Substance: Life is richer when you think and work for the good of others.
Soul: Soul: It's simple. Nature feeds me.

2 Responses for “The Women Who Weave by Ellen Agger, Co-Founder of TAMMACHAT Natural Textiles”

  1. Dear Ellen,
    Greetings from Nagaland. Having heard of you and your amazing work, I had to write in and try and touch base with you and your organization. I am a senior official of the State Govt., in charge of Sericulture department and I would like to share my interest in empowering the rural women in Nagaland through rearing of silk worms, reeling yarn & production of silk. If you have been to India I am sure you have heard of my home State Nagaland which is in the extreme North-East of the country. I believe that using sericulture in the state can go a long way in not only improving their Socio-economic status of the Naga Women but also empowering them. However in this regard I would like to share some of the problems we face in this small state: our rural women folks have been actively involved in rearing of silk worm but not of mulberry plants but oak plants producing muga variety of silk. Most of the cocoon produced here is sold off as raw materials to the neighboring States in the country & up to now, only a small portion is being used for production of hand woven garments. In the backdrop of this I am trying to discourage our people from disposing off the raw material but to concentrate in producing more yarn & go for varieties of local products. I write in with the hope that we can network with you and your organization TAMMACHAT. What you have done for the women of Laos and Thailand, I hope you can help us do the same for the women of Nagaland. We look forward to hearing from you.

    Bendang Longchari, IAS
    Secretary to the Govt. of Nagaland

  2. Ellen Agger says:

    Hello, Bendang Longchari. Thank you for your enthusiastic response to my article. I sent you an email on Nov. 28. Did you receive it? If not, please contact me through our website: http://www.tammachat.com/contact-us/. We are happy to talk further to you.

    Best,
    Ellen Agger
    Co-founder, TAMMACHAT Natural Textiles

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